Saturday, March 19, 2011

Facts About Garden Worms

Facts About Garden Wormsthumbnail
Earthworms contribute to healthy soil.
The lowly earthworm may not look like much, but it plays an essential, helpful role in your garden. Not just known as fish bait anymore, gardeners value these humble invertebrates as powerhouse composters, and an entire cottage industry has grown up around vermicomposting. "Wild" worms, living in the soil rather than in prepared composting bins, are even more valuable, enriching and conditioning the soil as they eat their way through it.
  1. Classification

    • Earthworms are members of the zoological class Oligochaeta, part of the phylum Annelida. Annelids are segmented worms, including nightcrawlers and leeches, as well as earthworms. The University of Michigan's Animal Diversity Web asserts there are more than 3,000 species of earthworm. Some 220 species are in the family Lumbricidae, which includes the most common worms in North America.

    Anatomy

    • Earthworm species share a similar anatomy, differing mainly in the size and number of segments which make up their bodies. The first segment contains the mouth and a wedge-like protuberance that helps the worm force its way through the soil. Other segments house a brain and a series of heart-like valves that ensure the worm's blood circulates; each segment contains a pair of excretory organs known as nephridia, explains Earthlife Web's Gordon Ramel. The only organs to protrude from the worm's body are hair-like setae, used in movement.

    Reproduction

    • Although earthworms are hermaphroditic--having both male and female reproductive organs--they normally mate in pairs rather than self-mate. Ramel explains that the testes and ovaries have their own separate sets of ducts, on separate sides of the body. The worms secrete a mucous tube into which the eggs are fertilized; the tube forms into a cocoon which, depending on the species, is left under ground or attached to water plants.

    Benefits

    • Matthew Werner and Robert L. Bugg, of the University of California Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program, observe that not only do earthworms convert leaf litter and other organic material to rich topsoil, but they also improve the soil's drainage and texture. Their movement through the soil lightens it, creating tiny passages for air, water and plant roots to penetrate and providing a habitat for helpful soil microorganisms. Worms enrich the soil as they eat and excrete tiny particles of decomposing material. Some species--known as epigeic worms--live near the surface and break down surface leaf litter; others--endogeic--live further down, breaking down decaying plant roots.

    Expert Advice

    • Karin Grobe, writing for the County of Santa Cruz Home Composting Program, recommends attracting worms by improving the soil. Her successful efforts to attract helpful worms began with loosening the soil with a pitchfork to a depth of about 6 inches, and working in a 3-inch layer of compost. She continues to mulch the ground around her plants with compost as well. These practices improve the soil while providing an ideal habitat for worms, which continue the soil improvement.

    Warnings

    • Worms used for vermicomposting, often red wigglers or "manure worms," are epigeic, living near the surface. The worms in your garden are more likely to be endogeic species, often known as "field worms." Therefore, Grobe warns against moving worms sold for composting into your garden soil, especially if you live in a warm, dry climate, because they may starve or overheat before finding sufficient surface matter to eat. Similarly, Werner and and Bugg caution against deep tilling, which can destroy worm populations by lifting deep-dwellers up to the surface and burying shallower-dwelling worms too deeply. Some pesticides can also kill earthworms.

Vermicompost and Vermiculture




 











“Culturing of earthworms and their application for a variety of purposes is what is meant by Vermi composting by vermi culture”.
a) Selection of species:
The epigeic species have been fouynd to be useful for compost making and the most commonly used species are 'Eisenia foetida' Perionyx excavatus' and ''Eudrillius eugiene'.These sprcies are fast breeders and feed actively on organic matter high in nitrogen!

b) Base materials required:



Crop residues ,tree leaves and animal dung are the the basic materials required.Agricultural wastes like sugarcane trash,weeds hedge cuttings ,saw dust, coir waste,paddy husk, cattle dung, effluent slurry, from bio-gas plant, excreta of sheep, horse , pig, poultry droppings (in small quantity) and vegetable wastes are ideal food for earth worms. City garbage or even biodegradable organic sludge, a waste product from ETP of any industry can also be used for feeding worms.

c) Containers for culturing:

Earth worm culturing should be done under shelter to avoid direct sunlight and heavy downpour . Either brick lined pits , plastic tubs, wooden boxes ,earthen pots or even on surface of soil by making heap of organic matter ,culturing can be done.Size of container should be 1 m x 1 m x 0.3 m .In case of pit or heap method dimensions may be changed to convenience , however ,depth of pit or height of heap should not be more than 45 cms.

d) Preparation of bed :


Step by step method of preparation of wormiculture bed has to be followed for good results.
First step: Select a container or dig a pit of appropriate dimensions as mentioned above wherever compost is to be prepared.
Second step: Make a bed of 10 cm height using any of the base materials (coir waste, paddy husk, sugar cane trash etc>)collected. Give a layer of soil on it. Sprinkle water on it to get a moisture level of 40-45%.The bed should appear wet.
Third step: Mix the organic waste with cattle dung in equal quantity and pour appropriate quantity of water over it so as to make a homogenous mixture. Effluent slurry from bio-gas plant is best used for this .Keep this mixture for two weeks. During this period heating of substrate will take place. Give turning to the material 2-3 times at 4-5 days interval and transfer it on the layer of bedding prepared earlier.



'Eisenia foetida' species of vermi culture added to the bed prepared.

Adding the Worm culture


Fourth step: Introduce cocoons or worms (if culturing is done for the first time , it is advisable to introduce worms) in the bed at the rate of 2000 worms for 400 kgs of feed mix. as prepared in third step. Then the feed mix is to be spread uniformly on the culture bed .Add 5-10 % neem cake in the feed mix. Neem cake in small quantities has beneficial effect on the growth of worms.
Fifth step: Cover the bed with Gunny cloth .Sprinkle water over the cloth periodically to keep gunny cloth wet. The worms feed actively on organic matter and assimilate only 5-10 % and rest isexcreated as loose granular mounds of vermicastings on the surface away from the feed source ,Thus the worms will convert the feed mix into vermicastings in 60 days . The vermin compost once formed completely will give the smell of moist soil.
Sixth step: Take out the vermi compost and make a heap in sunlight on a plastic sheet . Keep for 1-2 hours .The worms will gather at the bottom of heap. Remove vermin compost on top and the worms settled down at the bottom can be carefully collected for use in the next batch of vermi composting.

Sieve the vermicast (fine granular materials)                 Vermi wash from the compost


Finished product-Vermiwash collection & storage in containers of various sizes

e)Precautions for compost making : Finished Product -vermicompost

1. Moisture level in the bed should not exceed 40-50%.Water logging in the bed leads to anaerobic condition and change in pH of medium.This hampers normal activities of worms leading to weight loss and decline in worm biomass and population .
2. Temperature of bed should be within the range of 20-30 degree centigrade.
3. Worms should not be injured during handling .
4. Bed should be protected from predators like red ants, white ants, centipedes and others like toads,rats, cats , poultry birds and even dogs.
5. Frequent observation of culture bed is essential as acumaulationd of casts retards growth of worms.
6. Space is the criterion for grow th and estblishment of culture .Minimum space required is 2 square meter per 2000 worms with 30-45 cm thick bed.
7. Earth worms find it difficult to adopt themselves in new environments hence addition of inoculam as a bait from earlier habitat helps in early adaptation to new site of rearing.

Best composting tips:
1.Mixture 0f cattle ,sheep, and horse dung with vegetable wastes forms ideal feed for worms.
2.Addition of neem cake in small quantity enhances growth of worms.
3. Biogas slurry aged aerobically for 15 days enhances vermi composting process.
 

Organic Farming Hyderabad

Connect with Nature

Hyderabad GreenAcres
Campground
Welcome! Hyderabad GreenAcres is a rustic wildnerness that helps urbanites connect with nature. It is an organic farm and an excellent outdoor camping site. One can enjoy the farmstay in an idyllic countryside setup away from the hustle and bustle of the city life. It is  near Yadagirigutta (Bhongir) 65 kms from Hyderabad. We provide tents and a safe and comfortable environment for young families to enjoy camping in the lap of nature surrounded by a variety of mature fruit bearing trees. Sit around campfires and have the complete camping experience and reconnect with nature. Sleep under the open skys in the tents, listening to a variety of birds and the night sounds. Sharing the outdoors with creepy crawlies and wild animals adds an element of danger, however very remote. Our tents have detachable rainflies and the windows have flaps. Through the open flaps, see the night sky, and get a sense of sleeping under the stars but in the shelter of the tents that keeps the bugs and other crawling creatures away from you. Need to lead a healthy & adventurous lifestyle? Need an affordable and inexpensive getaway? Want to go camping this weekend.  Book Now!

We owe it to ourselves to enjoy and appreciate nature's beauty. It is also our responsibility to preserve the same for future generations.

Wholesome Family Fun

Tractor ride through the organic farm
Tractor Ride
Camping is a wonderful activity for both grown-ups and children to connect with nature. It is a great outdoor activity to get city kids away from the TV & Video games and bring them closer to nature that is surrounded by beautiful wilderness, trees, birds, insects, reptiles and even monitor lizards and wild peacocks. For those who fear insects and reptiles, it is just a conditioning of the brain and it helps to do things slowly - short and gentle exposures to these animals will overcome that fear. Building knowledge about the animals also helps a lot. The camping at Greenacres involves a structured introduction to nature and the wilderness, where city kids learn about survival, the dos and don'ts in the outdoors and get hands-on experiences in nature and get interested with the environment. Camping is the only way for minimalist lifestyle and eco-friendly adventure that provides a whole lot of excitement and fun from the most basic things in life. Besides being economical, tent camping gives campers more of a "back to nature" experience and is also the minimal carbon footprint holiday.

Organic Farming

Improved soil structure with full of micro-organisms and earthworms achieved using Organic and Natural farming techniques
The natural phenomenon of producing food without using synthetic chemicals and other harmful materials is known as organic farming. Simply defined, the concept of organic farming is nothing but traditional agriculture which was practiced for thousands of years before the 20th century. In India it was practised as recent as 5 decades ago before the advent of Green Revolution.

Organic agriculture is a safe, sustainable farming system, producing healthy crops without damage to the environment. It avoids the use of artificial chemical fertilizers and pesticides on the land, relying instead on developing a healthy, fertile soil and growing a mixture of crops with the help of farm yard manure and other organic matter.

In this way, the farm remains biologically balanced, with a wide variety of beneficial insects and other wildlife to act as natural predators for crop pests and a soil full of micro-organisms and earthworms to maintain its vitality. The avoidance of artificial chemicals means organic farmers minimize health and environmental pollution problems. Pesticide particles travel with the wind for many miles. Applying pesticides via aerial spraying is injurious to the health of farm workers and those who live near by. Also, the pesticide residue on the plants and the soil leachs into the ground during rains and contaminates the ground water - the only source of drinking water for many even today.

Why Organic Food Is Better?

The Organic Premise: Many people are aware that food grown according to organic principles is free from exposure to harmful herbicides and pesticides, but that is only one small aspect of organic agriculture. A larger part of organic agriculture involves the health of the soil and the ecosystem in which crops and livestock are raised. Organic farmers recognize that healthy, vibrant, and live soils and ecosystems significantly benefit crops. Natural, undisturbed soil is alive with microbiotic organisms that exist in harmony with the native plant life and the inorganic minerals that provide the soil's substrate.

Synthetic chemicals (such as herbicides, pesticides, and/or fast acting inorganic fertilizers) applied in or around crops interrupt or destroy the microbiotic activity in the soil. Once the microbiotic activity in the soil has stopped, the soil becomes merely an anchor for plant material. In this conventional method of agriculture (in use for only the past 50 of 10,000 years of recorded agriculture) plants can receive only air, water, and sunlight from their environment -- everything else must be distributed to plants by farmers, often from inputs transported thousands of kms to reach the farm in the form of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Plants are commonly fed only the most basic elements of plant life and so are dependent on the farmer to fight nature's challenges, e.g. pests, disease, and drought.

Why should a consumer care if organically cultivated fresh vegetable or fruit looks identical to a conventionally grown vegetable or fruit?

The answer is multi-faceted, but simply stated, organically cultivated produce will be healthier and more nutritious than a conventionally cultivated produce. By growing in a living soil where microbiotic activity constantly breaks organic matter and solid minerals into nutrients a plant can use, an organically cultivated plant always has exactly what it needs to grow, from germination to fruit set, and the plant will be healthier throughout its lifespan than a conventionally grown plant. As a result, the organically grown plant will be able to add more and complex components to all of its parts, including its fruit, resulting in a produce chock-full of micro-nutrients and trace minerals that are important for human nutrition.

Flavor is another benefit of healthy plants growing in a living soil. Flavor results from a mixture of many different and complex molecules. Healthy, living soil provides a constant and more complex mixture of these molecules, which results in more flavor. It's no surprise that chefs working in the highest caliber restaurants prefer organic ingredients to conventionally grown ingredients.

By purchasing locally-grown, organic produce, the consumer supports sustainable methods of land use that result in far less pollution and top-soil loss than does conventional agriculture. Synthetic pesticides and herbices not only kill soil microbes and leave toxic residues on food, they also threaten the health of farmworkers and disrupt natural ecosystems around the farm. Chemical fertilizers pollute lakes, ponds, rivers, and groundwater.

The alternative to using synthetic pesticides and fertilizers usually requires more labor on a farm. With more labor, organic farmers can match or exceed the productivity and quality of chemically dependent crops. Labor, rather than synthetic inputs, typically means more support for local economies, but it can also mean higher prices. Conventionally grown foods cost less because the chemical fertilizers are subsidized and their hidden costs are passed on to consumers and the environment. These hidden costs include creating synthetic inputs, the resulting pollution from spreading them, and long-term health effects of pesticide residues in our food.

Monday, March 14, 2011

Supply of Agricultural Inputs

Vermicompost

Vermicompost is an organic manure (bio-fertilizer) produced as the vermicast by earth worm feeding on biological waste material; plant residues. This compost is an odorless, clean, organic material containing adequate quantities of N, P, K and several micronutrients essential for plant growth. Vermicompost is a preferred nutrient source for organic farming. It is eco-friendly, non-toxic, consumes low energy input for composting and is a recycled biological product.
The solid waste generated in the order of 100 t / day by the two food processing plants of Jain Irrigation Company, if left to rot will deteriorate the environment and would become public nuisance. The Company has developed an efficient waste disposal system by culturing the lowly earthworm in an appropriate environment. The process allows for the safe conversion of waste into a valuable nutrient rich humus fertilizer-Vermicompost.

Vermicompost



Compost
Compost (pronounced /ˈkɒmpɒst/ or /ˈkɒmpoʊst/) is plant matter that has been decomposed and recycled as a fertilizer and soil amendment. Compost is a key ingredient in organic farming. At its most essential, the process of composting requires simply piling up waste outdoors and waiting a year or more. Modern, methodical composting is a multi-step, closely monitored process with measured inputs of water, air and carbon- and nitrogen-rich materials. The decomposition process is aided by shredding the plant matter, adding water and ensuring proper aeration by regularly turning the mixture. Worms and fungi further break up the material. Aerobic bacteria manage the chemical process by converting the inputs into heat, carbon dioxide and ammonium. The ammonium is further refined by bacteria into plant-nourishing nitrites and nitrates.
Compost can be rich in nutrients. It is used in gardens, landscaping, horticulture, and agriculture. The compost itself is beneficial for the land in many ways, including as a soil conditioner, a fertilizer, addition of vital humus or humic acids, and as a natural pesticide for soil. In ecosystems, compost is useful for erosion control, land and stream reclamation, wetland construction, and as landfill cover (see compost uses).

History


A modern compost bin constructed from plastic.
Composting as a recognized practice dates to at least the early Roman Empire since Pliny the Elder (AD 23-79). Traditionally, composting was to pile organic materials until the next planting season, at which time the materials would have decayed enough to be ready for use in the soil. The advantage of this method is that little working time or effort is required from the composter and it fits in naturally with agricultural practices in temperate climates. Disadvantages (from the modern perspective) are that space is used for a whole year, some nutrients might be leached due to exposure to rainfall, and disease producing organisms, some weed, weed seeds and insects may not be adequately controlled.
Composting was somewhat modernized beginning in the 1920s in Europe as a tool for organic farming.[1] The first industrial station for the transformation of urban organic materials into compost was set up in Wels/Austria in the year 1921.[2] The early personages most cited for propounding composting within farming are for the German-speaking world Rudolf Steiner, founder of a farming method called biodynamics, and Annie Francé-Harrar, who was appointed on behalf of the government in Mexico and supported the country 1950–1958 to set up a large humus organization in the fight against erosion and soil degradation. In the English-speaking world it was Sir Albert Howard who worked extensively in India on sustainable practices and Lady Eve Balfour who was a huge proponent of composting. Composting was imported to America by various followers of these early European movements in the form of persons such as J.I. Rodale (founder of Rodale Organic Gardening), E.E. Pfeiffer (who developed scientific practices in biodynamic farming), Paul Keene (founder of Walnut Acres in Pennsylvania), and Scott and Helen Nearing (who inspired the back-to-land movement of the 1960s). Coincidentally, some of these personages met briefly in India - all were quite influential in the U.S. from the 1960s into the 1980s.
There are many modern proponents of rapid composting which attempt to correct some of the perceived problems associated with traditional, slow composting. Many advocate that compost can be made in 2 to 3 weeks.[3] Many such short processes involve a few changes to traditional methods, including smaller, more homogenized pieces in the compost, controlling carbon to nitrogen (CN) ratio at 30 to 1 or less, and monitoring the moisture level more carefully. However, none of these parameters differ significantly from early writings of Howard and Balfour, suggesting that in fact modern composting has not made significant advances over the traditional methods which take a few months to work. For this reason and others, many modern scientists who deal with carbon transformations are sceptical that there is a "super-charged" way to get nature to make compost rapidly.[citation needed] They also point to the fact that it is the structure of the natural molecules - such as carbohydrates, proteins, and cellulose - that really dictate the rate at which microbial-mediated transformations are possible.
Some cities such as Seattle and San Francisco require food and yard waste to be sorted for composting.[4][5]

Ingredients


Home compost barrel in the Escuela Barreales, Chile.
Composting organisms require four equally important things to work effectively:
  • Carbon — for energy; the microbial oxidation of carbon produces the heat[citation needed].
    • High carbon materials tend to be brown and dry.
  • Nitrogen — to grow and reproduce more organisms to oxidize the carbon.
    • High nitrogen materials tend to be green (or colorful, such as fruits and vegetables) and wet.[6]
  • Oxygen — for oxidizing the carbon, the decomposition process.
  • Water — in the right amounts to maintain activity without causing anaerobic conditions.

Materials in a compost pile.
Certain ratios of these materials will provide beneficial bacteria with the nutrients to work at a rate that will heat up the pile. In that process much water will be released as vapor ("steam"), and the oxygen will be quickly depleted, explaining the need to actively manage the pile. The hotter the pile gets, the more often added air and water is necessary; the air/water balance is critical to maintaining high temperatures until the materials are broken down. At the same time, too much air or water also slows the process, as does too much carbon (or too little nitrogen).
The most efficient composting occurs with a carbon:nitrogen mix of about 30 to 1. Nearly all plant and animal materials have both carbon and nitrogen, but amounts vary widely, with characteristics noted above (dry/wet, brown/green).[7] Fresh grass clippings have an average ratio of about 15 to 1 and dry autumn leaves about 50 to 1 depending on species. Mixing equal parts by volume approximates the ideal C:N range. Few individual situations will provide the ideal mix of materials at any point in time - in this respect, home composting is like horseshoes, perfect is great, but close still works. Observation of amounts, and consideration of different materials[8] as a pile is built over time, can quickly achieve a workable technique for the individual situation.

Urine

People excrete far more of certain water-soluble plant nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) in urine than in feces.[9] Human urine can be used directly as fertilizer or it can be put onto compost. Adding a healthy person's urine to compost usually will increase temperatures and therefore increase its ability to destroy pathogens and unwanted seeds. Urine from a person with no obvious symptoms of infection is generally much more sanitary than fresh feces. Unlike feces, urine doesn't attract disease-spreading flies (such as house flies or blow flies), and it doesn't harbor the most hardy of pathogens, such as parasitic worm eggs. Urine usually does not stink for long, particularly when it is fresh, diluted, or put on sorbents.
Urine is primarily composed of water and urea. Although metabolites of urea are nitrogen fertilizers, it is easy to over-fertilize with urine creating too much ammonia for plants to absorb, acidic conditions, or other phytotoxicity.

Manure and bedding

On many farms, the basic composting ingredients are manure generated on the farm and bedding. Straw and sawdust are common bedding materials. Nontraditional bedding materials are also used, including newspaper and chopped cardboard. The amount of manure composted on a livestock farm is often determined by cleaning schedules, land availability, and weather conditions. Each type of manure has its own physical, chemical, and biological characteristics. Cattle and horse manures, when mixed with bedding, possess good qualities for composting. Swine manure, which is very wet and usually not mixed with bedding material, needs to be mixed with straw or similar raw materials. Poultry manure also needs to be blended with carbonaceous materials - preferably those low in nitrogen, such as sawdust or straw. [10]

Micro-organisms

With the proper mixture of water, oxygen, carbon, and nitrogen, micro-organisms are allowed to break down organic matter to produce compost.[11] The composting process is dependant on micro-organisms to break down organic matter into compost. There are many types of microorganisms found in active compost of which the most common are:[12]
  • Bacteria- The most numerous of all the micro organisms found in compost.
  • Actinomycetes- Necessary for breaking down paper products such as newspaper, bark, etc.
  • Fungi- Molds and yeast help break down materials that bacteria cannot, especially lignin in woody material.
  • Protozoa- Help consume bacteria, fungi and micro organic particulates.
  • Rotifers- Rotifers help control populations of bacteria and small protozoans.
In addition, earthworms not only ingest partly composted material, but also continually re-create aeration and drainage tunnels as they move through the compost.
A lack of a healthy micro-organisms community is the main reason why composting processes are slow in landfills with environmental factors such as lack of oxygen, nutrients or water being the cause of the depleted biological community.[12]

Common Items Suitable for Composting

You can always add these items to your compost and you are unlikely to negatively affect your composting efforts.[13]
  • Cardboard or clean paper
  • Dried Out Egg Shells
  • Leaves, Yard Trimmings
  • Fruits and Vegetables, Coffee and Tea

Uses

Compost is generally recommended as an additive to soil, or other matrices such as coir and peat, as a tilth improver, supplying humus and nutrients. It provides a rich growing medium, or a porous, absorbent material that holds moisture and soluble minerals, providing the support and nutrients in which plants can flourish, although it is rarely used alone, being primarily mixed with soil, sand, grit, bark chips, vermiculite, perlite, or clay granules to produce loam.
Generally, direct seeding into a compost is not recommended due to the speed with which it may dry and the possible presence of phytotoxins which may inhibit germination,[14][15][16] and the possible tie up of nitrogen by incompletely decomposed lignin.[8] It is very common to see blends of 20–30% compost used for transplanting seedlings at cotyledon stage or later.

Destroying pathogens, seeds, or unwanted plants

Composting can destroy pathogens or unwanted seeds. Unwanted living plants (or weeds) can be destroyed by covering with mulch/compost.
The "microbial pesticides" in compost may include thermophiles and mesophiles, however certain composting detritivores such as black soldier fly larvae and redworms, also reduce many pathogens. Thermophilic (high-temperature) composting is well known to destroy many seeds and nearly all types of pathogens (exceptions may include prions). However, thermophilic composting requires a fair amount of material, around a cubic meter.
The sanitizing qualities of (thermophilic) composting are desirable where there is a high likelihood of pathogens, such as with manure. Applications include humanure composting or the deep litter technique.

Types

Compost tea

Compost tea is a liquid solution or suspension made by steeping compost in water. It is used as both a fertilizer and in attempts to prevent plant diseases.[17] The liquid is applied as a spray to non-edible plant parts, or as a soil-drench (root dip), such as seedlings, or as a surface spray to reduce incidence of harmful phytopathogenic fungi in the phyllosphere.[18] Compost tea has been shown to cause a 173.5% increase in plant growth by mass over plants grown without castings. These results were seen with only 10% addition of castings to produce these results.[19]

Vermicompost


Rotary screen harvested worm castings
Vermicompost is the product of composting utilizing various species of worms, usually red wigglers, white worms, and earthworms to create a heterogeneous mixture of decomposing vegetable or food waste, bedding materials, and vermicast. Vermicast, also known as worm castings, worm humus or worm manure, is the end-product of the breakdown of organic matter by species of earthworm.[20]
The earthworm species (or composting worms) most often used are Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida or Eisenia andrei), though European nightcrawlers (Eisenia hortensis) could also be used. Red wigglers are recommended by most vermiculture experts as they have some of the best appetites and breed very quickly. Users refer to European nightcrawlers by a variety of other names, including dendrobaenas, dendras, and Belgian nightcrawlers.
Containing water-soluble nutrients, vermicompost is a nutrient-rich organic fertilizer and soil conditioner.[21]

Bokashi composting


Inside a recently started Bokashi bin. The aerated base is just visible through the food scraps and Bokashi bran.
Bokashi is a method of intensive composting. It can use an aerobic or anaerobic inoculation to produce the compost. Once a starter culture is made, it can be used to extend the culture indefinitely, like yogurt culture. Since the popular introduction of effective microorganisms (EM), Bokashi is commonly made with only molasses, water, EM, and wheat bran.
In home composting applications, kitchen waste is placed into a container which can be sealed with an air tight lid. These scraps are then inoculated with a Bokashi EM mix. This usually takes the form of a carrier, such as rice hulls, wheat bran or saw dust, that has been inoculated with composting micro-organisms. The EM are natural lactic acid bacteria, yeast, and phototrophic bacteria that act as a microbe community within the kitchen scraps, fermenting and accelerating breakdown of the organic matter. The user would place alternating layers of food scraps and Bokashi mix until the container is full.

Hügelkultur

The practice of making raised beds filled with rotting wood.[22][23] It is in effect creating a Nurse log though covered with dirt. The buried decomposing wood will give off heat, as all compost does, for several years. This effect has been used by Sepp Holzer for one to allow fruit trees to survive at otherwise inhospitable temperatures and altitudes.

Alternative to landfilling

As concern about landfill space increases, worldwide interest in recycling by means of composting is growing, since composting is a process for converting decomposable organic materials into useful stable products.[24] Industrial scale composting in the form of in-vessel composting, aerated static pile composting, and anaerobic digestion takes place in most Western countries now, and in many areas is mandated by law. There are process and product guidelines in Europe that date to the early 1980s (Germany, Holland, Switzerland) and only more recently in the UK and the US. In both these countries, private trade associations within the industry have established loose standards, some say as a stop-gap measure to discourage independent government agencies from establishing tougher consumer-friendly standards.[25][26] The USA is the only Western country that does not distinguish sludge-source compost from green-composts, and by default in the USA 50% of states expect composts to comply in some manner with the federal EPA 503 rule promulgated in 1984 for sludge products.[27] Compost is regulated in Canada and Australia as well.

Industrial systems


A large (and over sized) compost pile that is steaming with the heat generated by thermophilic microorganisms.
Industrial composting systems are increasingly being installed as a waste management alternative to landfills, along with other advanced waste processing systems. Mechanical sorting of mixed waste streams combined with anaerobic digestion or in-vessel composting, is called mechanical biological treatment, increasingly used in developed countries due to regulations controlling the amount of organic matter allowed in landfills. Treating biodegradable waste before it enters a landfill reduces global warming from fugitive methane; untreated waste breaks down anaerobically in a landfill, producing landfill gas that contains methane, a potent greenhouse gas.
Large-scale composting systems are used by many urban centers around the world. Co-composting is a technique which combines solid waste with de-watered biosolids, although difficulties controlling inert and plastic contamination from municipal solid waste makes this approach less attractive. The world's largest MSW co-composter is the Edmonton Composting Facility in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, which turns 220,000 tonnes of residential solid waste and 22,500 dry tonnes of biosolids per year into 80,000 tonnes of compost. The facility is 38,690 meters2 (416,500 ft2), equivalent to 4½ Canadian football fields, and the operating structure is the largest stainless steel building in North America, the size of 14 NHL rinks.[28] In 2006, the State of Qatar awarded Keppel Seghers, a subsidiary of Keppel Corporation to begin construction on a 275,000 tonne/year Anaerobic Digestion and Composting Plant. This plant, with 15 independent anaerobic digestors will be the World's Largest Composting facility once fully operational in early 2011 and forms part of the Qatar Domestic Solid Waste Management Center, the largest integrated waste management complex in the Middle East.[29]

Growing Cauliflower

A cool-weather crop grown for early summer and fall harvest, cauliflower will flower rapidly if the weather turns hot. Winter harvests are possible in mild Western or Gulf Coast climates. Plants are fairly frost hardy. Allow 60 to 80 days from transplanting to harvest-90 to 100 days for winter crops. See broccoli for culture, care, and pest control.
Start cauliflower from small plants set out 18 to 20 inches apart in rows 20 inches apart. Keep plants actively growing; any growth check might cause premature setting of undersized heads.
Cauliflower
Unlike broccoli, with its erect plants, cauliflower forms its edible buds only a few inches above the ground. Blanching of heads whitens them by excluding light and can be done simply by gathering the long wrapper leaves and securing them at the top with a wide rubber band. This prevents the formation of green or purplish pigment. Unwrap the heads occasionally to check for pests. If the weather does turn hot, an overhead sprinkling will create the humidity that cauliflower needs. But don’t substitute this for deep soaking.
cauliflower-1
Harvest heads before the bud segments or “curds” begin to separate in preparation for shooting up flower heads.
Recommended varieties. ‘Snowball’ and ‘Snow King hybrid.’ ‘Purple Head’ has large plants with heads of a deep purple color that turn green in cooking and a flavor somewhat like broccoli. It needs no blanching. In containers. Large size of each plant makes cauliflower impractical in containers.

Growing Melons

Summer plants with a voracious appetite for warmth, water, and space. The mouth-watering fruits take about 3 months to mature from seeds. Like their fellow members of the cucurbit family (squash and cucumbers) melons thrive in warm weather, take up lots of space, and need regular, ample water. If you can provide these requirements, home-grown melons will reward you with a vine-ripened sweetness impossible to find in the market.
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If you don’t have a very long warm season, however, look for the earlier maturing hybrids that can be successful in all areas but those with the coolest or shortest summers. Compact varieties with short vines even make it possible to grow melons in a small garden. The silvery green to buff or golden cantaloupe (muskmelon) are the fastest maturing and easiest to grow of the melons. The long-season melons—such as the green-skinned ‘Persian’, the pink-fleshed ‘Crenshaw’, the lime green fleshed ‘Honeydew’, and the white-fleshed ‘Casaba’— require up to 115 warm days to mature and dislike high humidity. They grow best in the warm interior valleys of the West and Southwest.
Watermelons—once considered long-season vegetables—can now he grown wherever cantaloupes mature reliably, thanks to new short-season varieties. The quick-maturing types called “icebox” -melons have smaller fruits than those sold commercially. The large- fruited varieties require 85 to 90 days or more to ripen roots and are fragile. Set plants 3 to 8 feet apart, depending on variety. Before planting seeds directly in the ground, wait until you find the soil has warmed to the 70-75°C required to sprout seeds. Plant 1 inch deep in circles of 5 seeds and later thin to 3 plants per circle.
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Melons respond dramatically to manure or fine compost in the soil and to being grown on mounds raised 6 inches above garden level for drainage and warmth. Build mounds for three plants by excavating about a bushel of soil, mixing with equal parts of organic matter and refilling the hole. Add a complete garden fertilizer when mixing the soil and feed plants every four to six weeks.
Grow melons in full sun at the side of the garden where the robust vines can be trained away from smaller vegetables. Vines are brittle and break easily, so train them while young.
Care. Mulch around the plants with straw to maintain an even level of soil temperature and moisture and to reduce loss of fruit to rotting. Watch the tips of vines for signs of wilting; then soak around the plants thoroughly.
Pests. Virus-carrying insects, such as cucumber beetles, can cripple young plants. If the plants slowly turn yellow and start to dry up, pull them up and replant. Spray with diazinon when beetles appear, stopping when label instructions indicate.
Harvesting. Here are some clues to ripeness in melons: for cantaloupes, if the stem slips off easily, the melon is ripe. Also, the opposite end softens and the netting becomes thick and corky as the fruit ripens.
For Persian and crenshaw, try the aroma test. Sniff the blossom end; if it smells sweet and fruity, the melon is ready. (Crenshaw can be fully ripe, yet have a green skin.) For honeydew and casaba, pick when the rind has turned deep yellow. The blossom end also tends to become springy instead of firm.
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Even the experts are sometimes fooled by watermelons, but these tips can help you pick them at their prime. Rap the melon with your knuckles; a dull “plunk” means the watermelon is probably ready—a higher pitched “ping” means wait a few days-and thump it again. (This test is most reliable in the early morning.) Also, note the two curly tendrils that extend from the stem nearest the fruit. When these turn brown, the melon is likely to be ripe. Check the light spot on the underside of the fruit. When this turns from white to light yellow, the melon is probably ready. Or, press down firmly on the top of the fruit with the palm of your hand. If you feel the flesh crack inside, it is ready to eat.
In containers. Large plants, slow growth, and low yield per plant make melons impractical for containers.
Plants of mustard grow knee high in 35 to 45 days and develop large, wide leaves. Cool weather improves the flavor. During hot weather the peppery tang to the greens can become strong, especially in older leaves.
Once flowering has started, it is useless to snap the tops off in the hope that new crops of leaves will form. Flowering is your signal to wait until cooler weather to plant a new batch of seeds.
Recommended varieties. Grow ‘Florida Broad Leaf’ where soils are sandy; the smooth leaves are easier to wash free of sand. ‘Southern Giant Curled’ is more handsome and has a fluffier texture in salads. ‘Tender- green’ has broad, edible stems and matures rapidly; it is more tolerant of hot, dry weather.
How to plant. Mustard seeds sprout reliably in cool soil. The plants thrive in cool weather but quickly go to seed in the heat of summer. As early in the spring as the soil can be worked, plant seeds 1/2 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Thin plants to stand 2 to 3 feet apart. Eat the thinnings. Plant again in late summer. In mild winter areas, plant again in fall and winter.
Care. Fertilize lightly when seeds are planted. Water frequently and generously.Pests. Hose off aphids and pick off cabbage worms or control them with Bacillus thuringiensis (note label precautions).
Harvesting. Pull plants only when thinning. Otherwise, snap off leaves, leaving the growing tip to produce replacements.

Shopping for Seeds and Plants

Before you buy any seeds, consider the pros and cons of both seed catalogs and display racks in stores. Most catalogs offer you a wider selection than store racks, but when you buy from a store, you can plant the seeds right away.
New varieties and hybrids are constantly being developed. In selecting your seeds, don’t be so stubbornly loyal to the familiar kinds that you deprive yourself of the improvements plant breeders develop in new hybrids, particularly disease resistance. Well-known varieties aren’t necessarily the best. A good example is ‘Stringless Green Pod’ bean, a variety that is about 100 years old. It is susceptible to a number of diseases caused by viruses, bacteria, and fungi and is only moderately productive. Yet gardeners continue to plant it, perhaps because of its familiar name.
Shopping for Seeds and Plants
Ready-made mixtures containing blends of several varieties of one vegetable offer an interesting way to try different varieties. For example, lettuce seed blends can give you an assortment of leaf colors and shapes for salads. Radish blends contain seeds of white, red, and red-white combinations. Sweet corn seed mixtures should be planted only when you have space for a sizable block because the differences in maturity dates can result in sparse pollination in small plots.Seed racks in retail stores are a convenient source of better-known vegetable varieties, but they rarely offer unusual varieties or new hybrid seeds.

Displays usually contain the varieties that are known to perform dependably in your area. Yet they may include some popular but poorly adapted varieties. If you are in doubt about the varieties you have selected, ask a knowledgeable salesperson to review your choices before ringing up the sale.
Federal and state seed laws require the seeds you buy from racks to meet minimum germination standards. Racks of fresh seeds are usually put up in early spring and removed in late summer, except in California, Arizona, Florida, and Gulf Coast areas, where seeds are on sale year round and packages are replaced twice yearly.

Buy only what you can use in one season and check the seed packages for expiration dates. Many seeds, such as onions and parsnips, are short lived. Shop for seeds as soon as the fresh seed racks appear in the stores, because the first warm weekend brings a buying rush that will deplete the selection of varieties. Displays in larger stores, however, are frequently restocked.

Growing Broccoli

Hardy cabbage relative. Start plants to mature during cool weather but before severe frosts.Frost-hardy broccoli plants should be transplanted to the garden in early spring to mature ahead of hot days or in early fall so they will be ready for harvest before killing frost. In mild Western climates, winter broccoli can be grown successfully, but plants should begin to head before the onset of cold weather.
Growing Broccoli
Recommended varieties. ‘Green Comet’ and ‘Neptune’ are good hybrids. ‘Green Mountain’, ‘Waltham 29′, ‘De Cicco’, and ‘Calabrese’ are older varieties but yield well. ‘De Rapa’ is one of the original Italian sprouting types that does not form large central heads.
How to plant. Grow spring broccoli from started plants; start fall or winter broccoli from seeds sown in the garden in late summer. Where summers aren’t too warm, Sow seed in the garden in early spring. Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep and 1 inch apart. Later transplant to 21/2 to 3 feet apart. Spring broccoli will mature in 50-60 days; winter crops need 75-90 days to form heads.
Care. Give broccoli plenty of water and push it along with frequent applications of high-nitrogen plant food to develop the big, vigorous plants that are necessary to support large heads. Plant short rows; six plants ace sufficient to feed four people. To avoid having many heads maturing at once, plant three plants at three— week intervals.
Pests. Broccoli heads are so large and tight that cabbage worms and aphids can be difficult to eliminates hosing off aphids or using a soapy solution on them. If you use malathion, spray before tm&- form and follow label precautions. Control cabbage worms with a spray of the biological insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis.
Harvesting. Cut the central heads while the buds are still tight. Include up to 6 inches of the edible stem and leaves. Pierce the lower stem with your thumbnail; peel off and discard the skin where it is hard and woody. Broccoli will send up edible shoots after you harvest the central head. Keeping shoots harvested before flowering will encourage production as long as the weather is cool. When the weather warms, the heat will force broccoli to flower—then it’s past the good-eating stage.

Growing Carrots

Two secrets to success with carrots: keep seeds moist until they’re up; provide loose soil for long roots.
Few other vegetables can match home-grown carrots for vitamin content and sweet flavor. Carrots have the happy habit of remaining in good condition long after maturity, so roots are rarely wasted. And even though carrots prefer cool weather, crops can be grown in midsummer in all areas of the country but the South. In mild-winter areas, if you plant carrots in early fall, the roots will continue to grow slowly during the winter, insuring a steady supply for salads, stews, and carrot sticks. Most varieties require 65 to 75 days to grow to full size.
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Recommended varieties. ‘Nantes’ and ‘Goldinhart’ are very sweet and tender and of medium- length. The miniature ‘Tiny Sweet’ is just the right size for finger carrots. ‘Red-Cored Chantenay’ has heavy, stumpy roots and excels in shallow soils. ‘Gold Pak’ needs deep topsoil for its long roots to develop.
How to plant. From the size of the mature carrot root, you could guess that they would need deep, porous soil to develop to full size. Adding a thin layer of topsoil won’t do; you have to open up the hard clay or silt soils to a 1-foot depth by spading in organic matter, such as well-rotted manure or peat moss. Too much coarse compost, however, will cause carrot roots to fork. Minimize soil compaction by laying boards between rows to walk on. Or try the sand trench method by planting seeds 1/2 inch deep in a trench of sand 2 inches wide and 8 inches deep. Feeder roots will grow sideways through the sand and draw nutrients from the soil.
Plant seeds 1/2 inch deep and 1/2 inch apart; later thin to 2 inches and finally to 3 inches as you remove half- grown roots for kitchen use. Germination can fail in dry weather when the soil dries out quickly and crusts form. You can improve sprouting by covering the seeded furrow with a board or plastic sheet. Seedlings look almost grasslike when the first leaves emerge, so weed carefully.
Starting carrot seeds in pots and transplanting them to the garden has some advantages over sowing seeds directly in the ground. Because germination is more certain in pots, you save on seeds. You also save the labor of early weeding and thinning. Still another advantage: you can sow at any time of the year.
Sow 10 to 12 seeds evenly in a 4 or 6 inch pot. Keep the soil damp, thinning to six or eight evenly spaced carrots per pot. Set out by planting the entire clump in the planting hole, turning it out of the pot carefully to avoid breaking the soil ball. Harvest the whole clump at once.
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Care. Carrots respond to frequent light applications of fertilizer and regular watering by developing large and tender roots. Rough roots can result from prolonged wet, cool weather. Twisted, distorted roots are often caused by delaying thinning too long. Forking and branching roots result from the use of fresh manure, rough, slow-decaying compost, or layers of hard soil. And infrequent watering can cause cracking of roots; the hard roots can literally swell and burst open when they finally get water.
Pests. Carrot rust fly is the one enemy which can be considered serious. Its larvae tunnel into roots of carrots. This is primarily a warm-weather pest; plant carrots to mature in cool weather so grubs won’t disfigure them. Or try digging in lots of well-rotted compost to encourage natural predators.
Harvesting. Begin pulling carrots as soon as roots reach finger size, harvesting all roots before seed heads form. If the soil is a little hard, prying roots with a trowel as you pull up on the tops will prevent them from breaking off; or water before pulling. If you do break off a top, dig out and eat the root; it may not grow a new top.
Carrot roots are easy to store where winters are severe (elsewhere, leave them in the ground). Before the soil freezes, dig the roots, break off the heavy part of the tops, and store the roots in dry sand or in leaf or straw pits or piles.
In containers. Short varieties and miniatures are best choices. Soil should be at least 12 inches deep and very loose.